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Alberta’s Fossil Trove
A couple of years ago, I had the pleasure of driving into the Canadian prairies for the first time. (No sarcasm there; I had a companion, and our entertaining conversation was invited to fill the pleasant emptiness of the flatlands.)
The journey had actually begun in Richmond. Eleven hours through winding roads and mountains later, I was in Calgary, to connect with an old friend visiting from the U.K. I had proposed that we drive out to Dinosaur Provincial Park, because it was a bucket list item and because I had no interest at the time in surveying another car city (living in one is bad enough).
We agreed to the plan, met the morning after, and made our way there. It was another two hours or so East from Calgary to the park. Endless farmland, blue skies and scorching sun. The occasional, lonely cloud or tractor interrupting the monotonous land- and skyscapes.
To get to the dinosaurs, you have to zig-zag via gridded farm roads. And just like in the movies, the ancient reptiles leap out at you dramatically. It is genuinely unbelievable how abruptly the fossil-ridden badlands appear. One moment, you are coasting through wheat and pavement. The next, you are descending on rock and gravel as the land around you concaves into another era. Canyons and valleys of unbelonging hills, buttes, and most surprisingly, greenery, emerge from nowhere, evocative of another, older time.
The park is a must-see. The bus tours are largely family-focused but informative for all. It was cool to walk around and see millions of years of our history so accessible; bones protruding from soil as commonplace as the straw-like grass stubbornly staking its claim to the area. It was also clear to understand why the badlands were considered sacred by the local Indigenous populations. Among the many reasons they originally left it undisturbed were the shadows cast by the hoodoos – interpreted as spirits lying in stone. After all, much of what casts shadows is living. People, trees, animals and the like.
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Land of the Rohirrim
Exploring Rohan (a few kilometers from Mount Sunday a.k.a. Edoras) and taking in the temporarily tranquil Canterbury landscape (until the mighty winds return), December 2018
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Palette of Cloth
An artist embroidering a silk ‘painting’, somewhere in the gardens of Suzhou, June 2014
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Edge of the World
Standing at the “edge of the world” atop Taaw Tldáaw on Haida Gwaii, October 2023
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Dunes at Carcross
East of Whitehorse and west of Watson Lake, Yukon, along the Alaskan Highway, there lies a detour worth taking. You can either turn south at the aptly named Carcross Cutoff or instead at Jake’s Corner*.
Continue down and you will find yourself in a small town in the rain shadow of four mountains. Its relatively dry environment is the location of an anomaly: a collection of sand dunes. Fed over time by silt sailing on winds from nearby lakes and home to unique vegetation.
Today’s photo feature: a peculiar, arid destination supported by verdant surroundings in the far North. Taken August 2022.
Here is another look:
*The name is listed as “Jakes Corner” online, but nearly every sign I saw there had the apostrophe, so I am leaving in the possessive.
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Reflection
A passage to serenity.
Located between Aero Point in Prince Rupert and Tuck Inlet at Lax Kwa’alaams. The greenest greens floating on the bluest blues, drifting liking a daydream through bracing mists.
Just remember to turn ‘roaming’ off before you arrive, lest the Alaskan signals snag your device.
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Sky Lights
Eleven years ago, on a late winter evening in February, young adults – mostly students from local post-secondary institutions – made their way to Vancouver shores for a protest in solidarity with those marching the streets of Kyiv. They lit biodegradable sky lanterns and cast them into the darkness, reflecting on the symbolism afloat and enjoying the company of friends.
The gathering lasted an hour or so before the crowds dispersed. The flickering candles drifted away like reverse snowfall afire, above a city of more permanent embers. The dimming lights settling amongst stars.
Ephemeral wanderers cloaked by the cosmic veil. Yielding to its insignificance.
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Urbex
Undertaking urban exploration somewhere in rural Scotland, 2016 (credit: DL)
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Wisps of Water
I was stopped at a gas station a couple weeks ago and noticed that rain had begun falling towards the west. It is not every day you get dark collapsing clouds contrasted with a whiter backdrop this clearly, so I took a quick click.
In case you have not heard, Canada is on fire (again and on schedule). The prairie provinces are bone dry and alight. Every bit of rain during the warmer months melts the heightening anxiety among the collective.
Here in B.C., the fire season never truly stopped. The blazes in the far northeast of the province have been burning since last year, as an example. But things will slowly get worse. Every time I do a pre-summer drive from Prince George to Vancouver, as I did in mid-May, I gain an understanding of how bad the wildfire summer is likely to be. Those of us who have even a modicum of experience repeatedly surveying the land during critical periods can get a good sense of conditions.
The equation is simple – the greener, the better. We know it will get hot, we know our effect on the environment, and we know that aside from random dry lightning, people will continue to make stupid mistakes. I have rarely driven past an entirely yellowed or golden-browned B.C. Interior landscape and not seen it become a tinderbox. It does not mean mass evacuations or grand impacts to civilization are guaranteed, but it does not bode well. This year, things are looking bad. Not 2023 bad, which was the worst fire season on record, but bad enough. I foresee opening up CBC News in a couple months and having déjà vu, except I will be reading headlines pertaining to our backyard rather than Alberta, Saskatchewan or Manitoba.
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Searching for Beacons
Coit Tower, Telegraph Hill, San Francisco
What a ten days it has been.
Grand milestones celebrated. Childhood friends revisited. Animated rallies attended. Unfortunate losses counted. All amidst an uncomfortably stratified yet contiguous set of urban existences. More grating to this observer each passing day. A source of growing defeatism rather than drive, though the latter’s leading quota is irreplaceable.
Port City hardly ever disappoints. That post, by the way, is not only my brief ode to Vancouver, but a reflection of its place in my life. A larger metaphor for a transitory phase of existence, one that continues to extend beyond expected timelines. I mean, I have been in Prince George for nearly four years. I should have made a home of this place. And yet… the apartment continues to resemble a waystation. It was about this time last year when I was musing about transience and its associated luggage. Funny how the seasonal patterns ripple in time.
It is a question still on my mind: Quelle heure est-il au Paradis?
Today’s photo is of a tower many of you may be familiar with, its cold white concrete illuminated at night. A landmark – an imposition of beauty – on a similar metropolis not so far away.
Perhaps this picture came to mind because this traveler’s thoughts are on beacons, or lack thereof. The course-correcting kind that arrive in the form of people, decisions, and moral will that seem to always be scarce. We are all living in Omelas and happy to champion its cruel vision.